Sci in Calabria

Calabria is the region where the improbable becomes reality and paradox becomes landscape. Here, at the tip of the Italian boot, within kilometres of the Strait of Messina and within sight of Sicily, ski resorts operate reliably every winter. Skiing with a view of the Mediterranean, descents through forests of ancient Larian pine and silver fir, and the genuine possibility of moving from snow to sea in under an hour: Calabrian skiing is one of those experiences that those who know it struggle to describe to the uninitiated without sounding extravagant.

The heart of Calabrian skiing beats on the Sila plateau, a vast mountain tableland extending across nearly 150,000 hectares between the provinces of Cosenza, Catanzaro and Crotone, protected at its wildest core by the Sila National Park. At 1,400 to 1,800 metres altitude, the Sila is covered by one of Italy’s most ancient and unspoilt forests: stands of Calabrian pine — Pinus laricio, an endemic species — growing dense and enormously tall, some with trunks over five metres in circumference testifying to centuries of undisturbed growth. Within this landscape of exceptional arboreal power stand the resorts of Camigliatello Silano, the region’s main ski station, and Lorica, framed by the mirror of Lake Arvo which partly freezes in winter reflecting the snow on its banks.

Camigliatello Silano has a ski history dating to the 1930s and today offers quality runs, modern lifts and a network of mountain huts and restaurants serving Calabrian mountain cuisine: fiery ‘nduja spread on durum wheat bread, aged capocollo, pulled pasta with pork ragu. The season typically runs from December to March.

Entirely different in landscape and character is Gambarie d’Aspromonte, on the Aspromonte massif forming the southernmost tip of Calabria. At 1,300 metres, Gambarie looks out over the Strait of Messina: on clear winter days, the buildings of Messina are visible with the naked eye, and in particularly transparent conditions the silhouette of Etna can be seen smoking on the horizon. The economic advantage of Calabrian skiing over the major northern resorts is substantial: lift passes, accommodation, meals and equipment hire cost a fraction of Trentino or Valle d’Aosta prices, making a proper ski holiday accessible to families who could not afford the larger stations. When the Alpine resorts close in March, the elevated Sila still guarantees abundant snow and excellent conditions, sometimes well into April.